We paint ourselves, part 4
In this installment, we'll take a look at what's in the bowl when we dilute the dye there. What are the main components of the dye mixture? Find more here: bleach to developer ratio
Important! All tools and fixtures for painting must be plastic or glass! We'll talk more about this in the Hair Coloring Tools and Accessories issue.
So, for coloring, we need a tube of dye cream and an oxidant, or hydrogen peroxide. The dye tube contains a coloring pigment that creates a new hair color and ammonia or its derivative (monoethanolamine). We talked about the difference between ammonia and ammonia-free paints in the issue "The difference between ammonia and ammonia-free paints . " The liquid with which the cream paint is diluted is called an oxidant, oxygenant or developer. The name will depend on the desire of the manufacturer of this paint, but the essence does not change from this, this is hydrogen peroxide.
What role do these components play?
• Oxidant, when combined with ammonia or its derivative, releases atomic oxygen, in other words, heat. This heat activates ammonia or monoethamin to open the scales of the cuticular layer, and this heat also helps the coloring pigment to anchor in the cortex or between it and the cuticular layer. Also, hydrogen peroxide brightens the natural pigment in the cortex.
• Ammonia or its derivative opens the cuticle scales and allows the coloring pigment and oxidant to penetrate inside.
• The coloring pigment is fixed inside the hair and creates a new hair color.
All components are interconnected and if you remove one of these links from the chain, the coloring process will not occur.
If you buy a box with paint and oxidant in a store, then you just have to mix the existing preparations into one container and proceed to staining. If you use professional dyes, then you need to buy separately cream paint and oxidant.
In order not to hammer your head with professional features and terms, let us dwell on the fact that for toning (ammonia-free paint) you need 3% oxidant, and for coloring (ammonia paint) 6%.
However, it is very important to understand that the services of a qualified professional hairdresser cannot be replaced by a single tutorial.